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KWSORDER.DOC
* * * * * * REGISTRATION AND ORDER FORM * * * * * *
Name:
________________________________________________________________
Address:
_____________________________________________________________
City: State/Prov:
_______________________________ _____________________
Country: Zip/Postal Code:
____________________________ ________________
Unit
Qty Price Total
KNITWARE registration . . . . . . . . $35.00 US
___
(includes all applicable taxes) . . $40.00 Can
____________
Shipping and handling outside
___
U.S.A. and Canada . . . . . . . . . . $ 5.00
____________
TOTAL
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Disk format: 5.25" 3.5"
_____ _____
We will accept US or Canadian currency.
Make cheques payable to: Morningdew Consulting Services Ltd.
Send this form and your registration fee to:
Morningdew Consulting Services Ltd
7604 Morningdew Rd.
R.R. #5 Victoria, B.C.
Canada V8X 4M6
Please fill in the following information if you can. It may help
improve our product and service to you.
Computer: PC-XT-286AT-386AT-PS/2 Model: Make:
____________ ____________
DOS version: RAM: K Hard Disk: Yes - No
____________ ______
Display: CGA-MCGA-EGA-VGA Floppy Disk: 5.25" - 3.50"
How did you receive your copy of KNITWARE? If it is a BBS or shareware
distributor, please indicate the name.
BBS - SHAREWARE DISTRIBUTOR - FRIEND Name:
____________________________
*** KNITWARE SWEATER DESIGN *** Version 1.10 *** January 1992 ***
KWSUSER.DOC
K N I T W A R E
S W E A T E R D E S I G N
USER MANUAL
Shareware version 1.10
January 1992
Morningdew Consulting Services Ltd.
7604 Morningdew Road
R. R. #5 Victoria, B.C.
CANADA V8X 4M6
This manual and the KNITWARE (TM) program and data
are Copyright (C) 1991, 1992
by Morningdew Consulting Services, Ltd.
All rights reserved
*** KNITWARE *** SWEATER DESIGN ********************************* Page 1
TABLE OF CONTENTS
1. INTRODUCTION
1.1 Design notes
1.2 Caution
2. INSTALLING THE PROGRAM
2.1 Floppy Disk Installation
2.2 Hard Disk Installation
3. GETTING STARTED
3.1 Starting the Program
3.2 Initializing
3.3 Set Designer Defaults
4. MENU OPTIONS
4.1 Design a new pattern
4.2 Change existing pattern
4.3 Print pattern instructions
4.4 Utilities
4.5 Help
4.6 Quit
5. ENTERING DESIGN DATA
5.1 Designer Data
5.2 Yarn and Gauge Data
5.3 Sweater Style Data
5.4 Finished Measurements Data
6. HOW TO QUIT
7. IF YOU HAVE A PROBLEM...
8. SYSTEM MESSAGES
APPENDIX
A Detailed Knitting Instructions
B Comment/Problem Form
C Shareware Order Form
*** MORNINGDEW CONSULTING ***** Version 1.10 *** January 1992 ***
*** KNITWARE *** SWEATER DESIGN ********************************* Page 2
0.1 LIMITATION OF LIABILITY
KNITWARE Sweater Design is supplied as is. There are no warranties,
expressed or implied.
MORNINGDEW CONSULTING SERVES LTD DISCLAIMS ALL WARRANTIES RELATING TO
THIS SOFTWARE, WHETHER EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED
TO ANY IMPLIED WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY AND FITNESS FOR A
PARTICULAR PURPOSE, AND ALL SUCH WARRANTIES ARE EXPRESSLY AND
SPECIFICALLY DISCLAIMED. NEITHER MORNINGDEW CONSULTING SERVICES LTD.
NOR ANYONE ELSE WHO HAS BEEN INVOLVED IN THE CREATION, PRODUCTION, OR
DELIVERY OF THIS SOFTWARE SHALL BE LIABLE FOR ANY INDIRECT,
CONSEQUENTIAL, OR INCIDENTAL DAMAGES ARISING OUT OF THE USE OR
INABILITY TO USE SUCH SOFTWARE EVEN IF MORNINGDEW CONSULTING SERVICES
LTD. HAS BEEN ADVISED OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH DAMAGES OR CLAIMS.
IN NO EVENT SHALL MORNINGDEW CONSULTING SERVICES LTD.'S LIABILITY FOR
ANY DAMAGES EVER EXCEED THE PRICE PAID FOR THE LICENSE TO USE THE
SOFTWARE, REGARDLESS OF THE FORM OF THE CLAIM. THE PERSON USING THE
SOFTWARE BEARS ALL RISK AS TO THE QUALITY AND PERFORMANCE OF THE
SOFTWARE.
This agreement shall be governed by the laws of the Province of
British Columbia and shall inure to the benefit of Morningdew
Consulting Services Ltd. and any successors, administrators, heirs and
assigns. Any action or proceeding brought by either party against the
other arising out of or related to this agreement shall be brought
only in a PROVINCIAL or FEDERAL COURT of competent jurisdiction
located in Victoria, British Columbia. The parties thereby consent to
in personam jurisdiction of said courts.
Morningdew Consulting Services, Ltd. reserves the right to update the
contents of the KNITWARE Sweater Design program and its associated
data and documentation at its discretion and without the consent of or
any obligation to any licensed users.
0.2 LICENSE
KNITWARE Sweater Design is NOT public domain or free software. This
version of KNITWARE Sweater Design is distributed as "SHAREWARE".
KNITWARE Sweater Design is Copyright (C) 1991, 1992 by Morningdew
Consulting Services, Ltd. All rights reserved. Morningdew Consulting
permits the copying and transfer of the Shareware Version of KNITWARE
Sweater Design to others, under the following conditions:
1. No fee shall be charged for copies of the KNITWARE Sweater Design
program, its data, or documentation. A charge for the copying
service and media is allowed as long as this charge does not
exceed $10.00.
2. The recipient receives an unmodified copy of all the KNITWARE
Sweater Design files, including this document.
3. You may not disassemble or decompile the KNITWARE Sweater Design
files or in any fashion attempt to reverse engineer the program.
*** MORNINGDEW CONSULTING ***** Version 1.10 *** January 1992 ***
*** KNITWARE *** SWEATER DESIGN ********************************* Page 3
0.2 LICENSE (continued)
Morningdew Consulting encourages the copying and transfer of the
program to others so that it may be evaluated by as many interested
users as possible. After the evaluation period, it is expected that
the users either register their copy of the program, or discontinue
using it.
0.3 TRADEMARK ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
MS-DOS is a registered trademark of Microsoft Corporation.
XT, AT, and PC-DOS are registered trademarks of IBM Corporation.
BOND is a registered trademark of Kimberly Marketing Corporation.
0.4 REQUIRED EQUIPMENT
KNITWARE Sweater Design will run on most IBM PC/AT/XT/PS-2 or
compatible computers, with at least 256 KB of free RAM after DOS and
any TSR programs are installed, PC-DOS or MS-DOS 2.1 or greater, one
floppy disk drive, and a printer. A hard disk and a colour monitor
are optional.
0.5 REGISTRATION INFORMATION
The cost of registration is $40.00 (Canadian) or $35.00 (US),
including shipping and handling and all applicable taxes. This
registration fee provides you with the following benefits:
1. You will receive the most recent commercial version of KNITWARE
Sweater Design. You will also receive a printed manual.
2. It will put you on the mailing list to receive information about
KNITWARE updates and new programs as they become available.
Updates will be provided at a minimal cost (to cover media,
processing, and shipping costs).
3. We will provide you with free support by mail and/or telephone
for at least 6 months after registration.
We encourage you to support the Shareware method of software
distribution by becoming a registered user. A registration form is
provided in Appendix C of this manual, or can be printed from the file
KWSORDER.DOC.
0.6 MONEY BACK GUARANTEE
If you are not completely satisfied with your REGISTERED version, you
may return it within 60 days for a full refund. NO QUESTIONS ASKED.
*** MORNINGDEW CONSULTING ***** Version 1.10 *** January 1992 ***
*** KNITWARE *** SWEATER DESIGN ********************************* Page 4
1.0 INTRODUCTION
The KNITWARE Sweater Design program has been written by a
knitter for knitters. I knit both by hand, and using a BOND
CLASSIC knitting frame. I was frustrated by the continual need
to convert patterns for different yarns, or sizes, for changing
a neckline, or lengthening a sleeve. The KNITWARE Sweater
Design program was the eventual outcome of this frustration.
This program will print a knitting pattern for you to use in
knitting a customized sweater, using the data that you give it,
and tables of standard body measurements and needle sizes. The
program uses your measurements, your style selections, your
gauge and yarn information to create a unique pattern. This
pattern also gives you a permanent record of what you have
knitted, and when.
The pattern instructions are written for either hand or machine
knitters. The machine knitting instructions are very
simplified, assuming you are using a basic knitting frame,
without a ribber. If you have a ribber (lucky you) feel free to
use it. There are no specific instructions for punchcard or
electronic machines.
KNITWARE Sweater Design will handle most combinations of the
following:
- Knit body of sweater in stocking stitch by machine or hand.
- Knit ribbing by machine or hand.
- Pullover or cardigan style.
- Drop shoulder, raglan, or set-in (fitted) sleeve style.
- Crew (round) or V neckline, or rolled cowl collar.
- Body length: waist, regular, hip, or coat.
- Children's sizes 20 - 32, Women's sizes 30 - 48,
Men's sizes 32 - 52.
- Variable amount of ease from very tight to oversized fit.
- All default finished measurements (e.g. length of body,
ribbing, sleeve, depth or width of neck, etc.) can be
changed.
- Measurements in imperial (inches) or metric (cm).
- Calculate amount of yarn required.
There are many things the program doesn't do. If there is
something particular you would like to see, let us know about
it. The program is continually under revision, and I am happy
to incorporate anyone's good ideas.
Particularly important, please let us know if you find any
mistakes or errors. The program has been tested exhaustively,
but there are so many possible combinations that some small
mistakes may have slipped through.
In this documentation, values to enter on the screen are often
shown in quotes (e.g. "N") to help distinguish them from the
surrounding text. Only the value inside the quotes should be
typed, NOT the quotes themselves. Please refer to section 5.1
for information on data entry, keyboard functions, help, error,
and verification messages.
*** MORNINGDEW CONSULTING ***** Version 1.10 *** January 1992 ***
*** KNITWARE *** SWEATER DESIGN ********************************* Page 5
1.1 DESIGN NOTES
The program gives you a pattern for a plain sweater tailored to
your size and specifications. You can easily add stripes,
intarsia, lace holes, cables, etc.. Remember, if adding cables
(or anything else that will change the stitch gauge), to either
knit a test swatch with the cables (if a lot of it), or to
adjust the ease a bit (for a small amount).
If you are using two or more different yarns (e.g. body in a
multi-coloured nubbly yarn, ribbing in a plain yarn) it is a
good idea to make a test swatch with each yarn, and run the
program twice, once with each stitch gauge. You will have to
manually combine the two patterns, or decide which bits to use,
but it will give you a better-looking finished garment.
1.2 CAUTION
The patterns created by the KNITWARE program will produce
wearable, well-fitting sweaters in most cases. However, just as
for off-the-shelf patterns, knitting with the wrong needles, or
to a different gauge will give unpredictable results.
With the KNITWARE program, you have an even greater possibility
of error, since you can also change any of the measurement
data. For example, you could make the front neck width wider
than the back neck width, or the wrist measurement larger than
the upper arm. There are far too many possibilities for the
program to check them all, we assume that you will use common
sense.
Also, if you do change any measurement data, check your
measurements and the knitting instructions for reasonableness,
BEFORE starting to knit.
2.0 INSTALLING THE PROGRAM
This program can be run on any IBM-PC compatible micro
computer. The computer must run under DOS, have a 5.25" or 3.5"
diskette drive, and a printer. The program can be run from the
diskette or installed on a hard disk.
The following instructions are to be executed from native DOS.
You may have easier ways to do these things if you have a DOS
shell, windows or menu program installed.
*** MORNINGDEW CONSULTING ***** Version 1.10 *** January 1992 ***
*** KNITWARE *** SWEATER DESIGN ********************************* Page 6
2.1 FLOPPY DISK INSTALLATION
Before running the program for the first time, you should make a
working copy of the KNITWARE diskette, in case the original is
destroyed.
Use the DOS DISKCOPY command to format a blank diskette and copy
all the files. If you need more information, check your DOS
User's Guide.
Insert the KNITWARE diskette in drive A. If you have two floppy
drives of the same size (i.e. both 5.25 or both 3.5), insert the
blank diskette in drive B and type the following:
DISKCOPY A: B: [Enter]
Otherwise (only one floppy drive, or two of different sizes),
type:
DISKCOPY A: A: [Enter]
and follow the instructions on the screen.
When the copy is complete, label the working copy. Store the
original KNITWARE disk in a safe place.
2.2 HARD DISK INSTALLATION
If you have a hard disk, the Sweater Design program can be
installed on it. The install program provided with KNITWARE
will create a directory called KNIT on the hard drive of your
choice. If the directory KNIT already exists, the install
program will use it.
If you do not want to use the default KNIT directory, then do
not use the install program. Instead, create your own directory
and copy the files from the KNITWARE disk to it.
To run the install program, insert the KNITWARE disk in the
floppy drive, and type a command of the format:
KWSINSTL X Y [Enter] (e.g. KWSINSTL A C)
X should be the floppy drive directory (usually A or B), and Y
is the hard drive directory (usually C, might be D, E, or F,
etc.).
When the install is complete, remove the KNITWARE diskette and
store it in a safe place. You will not need it again to run the
Sweater Design program.
*** MORNINGDEW CONSULTING ***** Version 1.10 *** January 1992 ***
*** KNITWARE *** SWEATER DESIGN ********************************* Page 7
3. GETTING STARTED
Before you start running the program, you need a few things from
your knitting world:
- An idea of the sweater design that you want to knit.
- The size, and approximate finished measurements required
(or at least an idea as to how your model varies from the
"average").
- The yarn information, from the manufacturer's ball-band, or
from the spinner, if homespun.
- A test swatch of the yarn knitted on the needles (or dial
gauge or keyplate) and the pattern (usually stocking
stitch) that is to be used for the body of the sweater.
From this, the gauge over 4 inches (10 cm) for rows and
stitches must have been calculated. AN ACCURATE TEST GAUGE
IS CRUCIAL to designing and knitting a sweater that will
fit well.
3.1 STARTING THE PROGRAM
Once the program has been installed (see Section 2), you are
ready to run it.
If installed on hard disk, go to the working directory. Under
native DOS, type:
CD \KNIT [Enter] Replace KNIT with the name of
your directory, if different.
KWS [Enter]
If running from a floppy disk, insert your working copy of the
_______
KNITWARE disk in drive A and type:
A: [Enter] To point to drive A as your
working directory.
KWS [Enter]
*** MORNINGDEW CONSULTING ***** Version 1.10 *** January 1992 ***
*** KNITWARE *** SWEATER DESIGN ********************************* Page 8
3.2 INITIALIZING
The Sweater Design program will start with a Designer Identification
Screen.
* * * * * DESIGNER IDENTIFICATION * * * * *
* *
* Name: *
* *
* [F1] Help [Esc] Quit *
* *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
The program needs to know who you are, so it can retrieve the correct
designer defaults and pattern data for you. The first time that you
run the program, the name field will be blank.
Whenever you run the program after that first time, the name that you
entered will be displayed. To use the displayed name, simply press
[Enter]. To use a different name, type over the displayed name, then
press [Enter].
If for some reason you do not wish to run the program at this time,
simply press the [Esc] key, and turn off the computer (removing the
disk first if running from floppy disk).
3.3 SET DESIGNER DEFAULTS
The first time you run the program (that is, the first time the
program recognizes a new name), you must set the designer defaults.
The designer defaults data screen is displayed.
Read section 5.0 for general information regarding data entry, and
section 5.1 for specifics relating to the designer data form. In
general, you use the down arrow to move from one field to the next.
If you wish to change the data shown, press the [Enter] key, and a
menu of valid selections will pop up. Highlight a value from the
menu, using the first letter or the up and down arrows, then press
[Enter] to make your selection and return to the form.
Enter the values you would most commonly use. For example, you may
knit both by hand and machine, but if you use the machine most often,
select "Machine" from the menu.
When you have entered this data, it is saved on a file, and these
values are then used as the defaults for any patterns that you design
with the program. Any or all of them may be changed at design time.
*** MORNINGDEW CONSULTING ***** Version 1.10 *** January 1992 ***
*** KNITWARE *** SWEATER DESIGN ********************************* Page 9
4. MENU OPTIONS
The Sweater Design program is run from the Main Menu.
MAIN MENU
Design new pattern
Change existing pattern
Print pattern instructions
Utilities
Help
Quit
Press cursor keys or first letter
of command to position cursor,
then press [Enter] to select.
To highlight a line (position cursor), type the first letter of an
option (or command), or use the UP and DOWN arrow keys. Press the
[Enter] key to make your selection.
In a typical session you would design a new pattern (first option),
and print it. After checking the printed measurements, you may
decide to change the pattern (second option), and print it again. If
you lose the pattern instructions, or it becomes too tattered, you
can then print the changed instructions again (third option).
A full description of each menu option, along with how and when you
might want to use it, is given in the following sections.
4.1 DESIGN A NEW PATTERN
This is where it all starts. You have some wool, a test swatch, some
ideas as the size and style of sweater you want. Here all your
information is entered, and the program calculates the number of
stitches, of rows, of decreases, and cast-offs to make this
one-and-only just-for-you sweater.
Section 5 takes you through the data entry procedures step by step.
When all the data has been entered and verified, the program saves it
and gives you the option to print it. Usually, you would print the
pattern, but you may exit at this time, and print it (selecting the
print option from the main menu) in a later session.
When the program is ready to save the data it will display:
Enter pattern name:
Try to choose a name that is meaningful. One suggestion is the name
of the person the sweater is knitted for, followed by a description,
number or date (e.g. Mary flowers, Judith Oct90, Kevin#7). The name
may be up to 15 characters long, and be composed of letters, spaces,
numbers and most special characters (e.g. - * # , . /).
_
If the name already exists on your pattern file, a message will be
displayed and you will have to choose a new name.
*** MORNINGDEW CONSULTING ***** Version 1.10 *** January 1992 ***
*** KNITWARE *** SWEATER DESIGN ********************************* Page 10
4.2 CHANGE EXISTING PATTERN
If you want to change some part of a saved pattern design, you
should choose this option.
Initially, the program will display:
LOAD OLD PATTERN DATA
PATTERN NAMES CURRENTLY ON FILE:
1. aaaaa 6. fffff
2. bbbbb
3. ccccc
4. ddddd
5. eeeee
Type number for pattern name,
[ESC] to quit, [Page Up] or [Page Down] to scroll:
Up to fifteen pattern names will be displayed at one time. If the
pattern name that you require (it is printed at the top of your
pattern) is not shown, use the [Page Down] key to scroll down to
it. When the pattern name you want is displayed, enter the number
associated with it, then press [Enter].
Pattern name is: xxxxxxxx
Accept: Yes or No: Y
The confirmation message just checks that you selected the correct
number. If the pattern name is the one you want, press [Enter] to
verify, otherwise press 'N' then [Enter] to chose a different
pattern name.
When the pattern data has been retrieved, the program proceeds to
the "Entering Design Data" screens. Your data values, as they
were last entered, will be displayed. To change any of this data,
follow the instructions in Section 5. For any screen that you do
not wish to change, simply press [Page Down] to accept the data as
displayed.
When the Finished Measurements have been verified, the data must
be saved again. The screen will show:
Current pattern name: xxxxx
Re-save pattern under old name(O)
or with a new name (N): O
If you are just correcting some values, and you have no reason to
save the old data, press [Enter].
*** MORNINGDEW CONSULTING ***** Version 1.10 *** January 1992 ***
*** KNITWARE *** SWEATER DESIGN ********************************* Page 11
4.2 CHANGE EXISTING PATTERN (continued)
If, however, you have made major changes to create a new pattern
from an old one, or you want to decide between the two at some
later time, press "N" [Enter]. The program will then request a
new name for the pattern data. See section 4.1 if you need
further information.
All data that is displayed for a CHANGE is as you last entered and
stored it. This holds true for measurement data as well, as long
as none of the size or style data is changed.
However, when you change ANY of the size, sex, or style data the
program will recalculate default values for ALL the measurement
data. If the measurement data has been recalculated from default
values, the "** Default Measurements **" message will appear near
the top right of the data entry window.
This may occasionally be a nuisance. For example, if you change
the size, if affects every measurement field, so recalculating
them is important. However, changing from a crew to a V neck
affects only the neck shaping, and if you have previously
customized sleeve length, back width, etc., these custom changes
to the measurement data will have to be re-entered.
After the changed data has been saved, you would normally print
it.
4.3 PRINT PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS
When you have just finished designing a new pattern, or changing
an old one, you are automatically given the option to print it.
You should print the pattern to verify the details. You can then
use it to knit the sweater.
The print procedure may also be used to print a pattern that has
been saved on file previously.
If you select the print option from the main menu, and there is a
current pattern, the following message is displayed:
Print current pattern (C) or one from file (F): C
For the current pattern (name is displayed on the upper left of
the screen) simply press [Enter]. If you wish to print a
different pattern (that you have previously saved on file), type
'F', then press [Enter]. In this case the LOAD OLD PATTERN DATA
screen will be displayed (see section 4.2).
The next message displayed is:
Calculate amount of yarn required (Y/N): N
*** MORNINGDEW CONSULTING ***** Version 1.10 *** January 1992 ***
*** KNITWARE *** SWEATER DESIGN ********************************* Page 12
4.3 PRINT PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS (continued)
There are many ways to calculate the amount of yarn required. The
program uses only one method, and for that method you must tell it
how far one ball of yarn will go. To find how far one ball will
go, you can simply cast on a number of stitches (e.g. 50) and knit
until the ball is finished, or you can continue knitting your test
swatch until the ball is gone.
Optionally, you can initially say no to this question, and start
knitting your sweater. When one ball is gone in knitting the
back, then re-run the program saying Yes to this question, and
check whether you have purchased enough yarn to finish the
garment.
If you have knit up your one ball, then type 'Y' and press
[Enter].
One ball of yarn knits stitches
by rows.
Fill in the blanks (e.g. if your one ball knitted 27.5 rows of 50
stitches, you would type 50 on the first line, and 28 on the
second line), then press [Enter].
The final message displayed is:
Check that printer is turned on, and set to top of form.
Press any key to continue.
Check your printer is turned on, that the paper is inserted
correctly and is set to the top of form. The pattern prints on
standard letter size paper (8.5 x 11 inches). If you commonly use
a different size, check that the correct size is loaded, and the
form length is set to 11.
The pattern usually prints on two pages. The time taken will
depend on the speed of your printer.
4.4 UTILITIES
Certain procedures that are used infrequently are combined under
this heading. Selecting the Utilities option on the Main Menu
brings up the Utilities Menu.
UTILITIES MENU
Change designer defaults
Delete pattern data
List pattern names
Return to main menu
Select "Return" if you do not wish to do a utilities function at
this time, or when you have completed the utilities function(s).
*** MORNINGDEW CONSULTING ***** Version 1.10 *** January 1992 ***
*** KNITWARE *** SWEATER DESIGN ********************************* Page 13
4.4.1 CHANGE DESIGNER DEFAULTS
The first time that you used the program, you had to enter the
Designer Defaults (see Section 3.3). However, as you use the
program more, or as your needs change, you may want to change some
of these default values.
Changing the designer defaults is identical to Setting Designer
Defaults (Section 3.3) except for the values displayed on the
screen. Change those values that you wish to and they will be
changed on the defaults file. Upon completion, you will be
returned to the Utilities menu.
4.4.2 DELETE PATTERN DATA
As the number of patterns on your pattern file increases,
accessing (loading and/or saving) the data takes longer. The
program allows a maximum of 99 patterns on the file, but you will
probably decide long before then that the file access is taking
too long.
You may also have patterns on the file that were trials, never
used, or unwanted. The delete function can be used to tidy up the
file.
WARNING. Once deleted, the pattern data can no longer be
retrieved or used again. The program does NOT make a backup of
your pattern data file before the deletions are done. If you want
a backup, refer to your DOS manual on how to do it. The file name
is KWS PATT.DAT.
_
The Delete Pattern Data utility function allows you to select
which patterns to delete from the file. You may delete any
number, from none to all of them. Selecting this option on the
Utilities menu takes you to the DELETE OLD PATTERN DATA screen:
DELETE OLD PATTERN DATA
PATTERN NAMES CURRENTLY ON FILE:
1. aaaaa 6. fffff
2. bbbbb
3. ccccc
4. ddddd
5. eeeee
Type number for pattern name, [F2] for all deletes selected,
[ESC] to quit, [Page Up] or [Page Down] to scroll:
Enter the number of the first pattern to delete, verify the name,
then enter the next number as it is requested. Pattern numbers
may be entered in any order. Pattern numbers marked for deletion
will be highlighted on the screen. Press [ESC] at any time to
exit without deleting any patterns, for example, if you enter and
verify a pattern that you really want to keep.
*** MORNINGDEW CONSULTING ***** Version 1.10 *** January 1992 ***
*** KNITWARE *** SWEATER DESIGN ********************************* Page 14
4.4.2 DELETE PATTERN DATA (continued)
When you have finished selecting the pattern numbers to delete,
press [F2] to physically delete the patterns from the file. The
computer will take a few moments to process the deletes, and then
will display:
PATTERN FILE DELETIONS COMPLETED.
Press any key to continue.
when finished. Press any key and you will be returned to the
Utilities Menu.
4.4.3 LIST PATTERN NAMES
This function allows you to look at the names of the patterns you
have stored on the file. It simply displays the pattern names in
the same format as the CHANGE or DELETE, and allows you to scroll
through them using the [Page Up] and [Page Down] keys. Press
[ESC] when you have finished.
4.5 HELP
A lot of the information covered in this manual is available as
on-line help. There are two kinds of help in the Sweater Design
program.
During data entry, when you are entering information to specific
fields, pressing the [F1] key will provide a single line of
information in the lower left of your screen. It will describe
the field, its uses, whether it is mandatory or optional, etc.
General information about the different program functions is
available through the HELP option on the Main Menu. Selecting the
HELP option will bring up a series of menus for you to select the
topic of interest. The information will be displayed on a full
screen. Use the [Page Up] and [Page Down] keys to scroll through
the screens, [ESC] when you are finished.
4.6 QUIT
When you have finished your Sweater Design session, select this
option to quit. This ensures that all files are closed properly
and that no data will be lost.
This option may also be selected before any other, in case you
remember that there is something else that you should be doing
instead.
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5. ENTERING DESIGN DATA
All data entry for this program follows a few simple rules.
- Default (displayed) values will be used unless you type over
them.
- Type the value you want, then press the [Enter] key.
- The backspace <--, [Insert], and [Delete] keys can be used to
change data as it is being entered in a field.
- You may use the UP and DOWN arrow keys to move from one field
or position to another, without changing the data.
- The [Esc] key is used to quit the data entry altogether, and
return to the Main Menu.
- Use the [F1] key for Help. A single line of instructions will
be provided at the bottom left of the screen.
- Use the [Page Down] key to bypass all or the remaining fields
on the screen, if they do not need changing.
- A "BEEP" will sound if you try to enter a character in a
numeric field, or if your data is too long.
There are two major types of data to be entered: mandatory, and
optional. Mandatory data fields are those that will be used to
calculate the pattern data. Some examples are: stitch and row
gauge, size, sleeve length. If the required data values are not
accurate, the sweater will, in all probability, not fit.
Optional data is for information purposes only. It is printed on
the pattern to help you remember when, or with what the sweater
was knitted. Some examples of optional data are: the date
finished, for whom the sweater is knitted, the yarn information.
Some data values are entered by a pop-up menu selection: e.g. sex,
size. Use the UP and DOWN arrow keys to move from one field to
another. Use the [Enter] key to select a field to change. A menu
of options will pop up. The first option, "No change", allows you
to return to the data entry screen without changing the previously
displayed value. Otherwise, use the first letter or cursor keys
to highlight an option, then the [Enter] key to select.
After the last data field on the screen has been passed, the
verify message appears near the bottom of the screen:
Press ENTER to Accept, any other key to Edit.
You should check everything on the screen. If all is fine, press
[Enter], and the program will display the next screen. However,
if there IS something you want to change, press any other key, and
the cursor will return to the first field on the screen.
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5. ENTERING DESIGN DATA (continued)
The program checks all data as it is entered. If it is found to
be incorrect, or questionable, the beep is sounded and a message
is displayed in the lower left of the screen. The message must be
acknowledged (press any key) before you can correct the entry.
Most messages are self-explanatory, but if you have trouble, check
Section 8 which contains a list of some messages and their
explanations.
However, not all possibilities can be checked by the program. You
should verify that what you have entered on the screen is what you
want, before pressing [Enter] on the Verify response. You should
also check the printed pattern thoroughly (especially the Finished
Measurements section) BEFORE starting to knit the sweater.
5.1 DESIGNER DATA
The Designer Data Screen is the first screen to be displayed for
designing a new pattern, or changing an old pattern. It is the
same screen used for setting or changing Designer Defaults.
The screen display is as follows:
----KNITTING METHOD-----
Measurement units: ins Body of sweater: Machine
Screen colour: Magenta Ribbing: Machine
Type of knitting needles: Metric
Type of knitting machine: Bond
Ribbing done first or last: First
All data fields on this screen are mandatory. Values are entered
from pop-up menus.
The default values shown on the screen will depend on what your
designer defaults have been set to. Review the data on the
screen, and determine which fields need changing for the current
pattern. If the meaning of a field is not clear, press [F1] for
help.
If you do not want to make any changes, use the [Page Down] key to
bypass each field on the screen, then press [Enter] for the verify
message.
If you change the COLOUR, the new colours will not be used until
you finish the screen. If you have a monochromatic (no colours)
monitor, your colour will automatically be set to "None".
Changing it to a different colour may have unpredictable results.
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5.1 DESIGNER DATA (continued)
If you are knitting either the body or ribbing by hand, the "TYPE
OF NEEDLES" message will be displayed. Entering this field
correctly will improve the clarity of the printed pattern.
Likewise, if you are knitting either the body or ribbing by
machine, the "TYPE OF MACHINE" message will be displayed.
If you are changing from all hand or all machine to the other, or
a combination, the screen will be displayed twice, the second time
with the new "TYPE OF NEEDLES/MACHINE" message.
You may knit both the body and the ribbing by machine, or both by
hand. You may also knit the body by machine and the ribbing by
hand. However, the program does not allow the reverse (body by
hand, and ribbing by machine).
If you are knitting both the body and the ribbing by machine, the
"RIBBING FIRST OR LAST" message will be displayed. If you have a
ribber, or prefer to do the ribbing first, continuing from it to
the body of the sweater, enter "First". If, instead, you like to
knit the body first, then rehang the stitches to do the ribbing,
enter "Last". This field is used only to determine the order of
the printed pattern instructions for the ribbing.
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5.2 YARN AND GAUGE DATA
The second screen is for entry of the yarn and tension gauge
information.
Knitting sweater for whom:
Start date: xxxxxxxxxxx
Finish date:
(Manufacturers) yarn name:
Yarn colour(s):
Yarn composition:
Washing instructions:
TEST SWATCH GAUGE:
(over 10 cm = 4 in)
Stitches: 20 Keyplate size for body of sweater: 4
Rows: 28 Keyplate size for ribbing: 3
The first seven fields on this screen are optional. If entered,
they are printed on the pattern. Sometimes, it is handy to have
this information available. At other times, you may feel it is a
waste of time to enter the yarn data, and decide instead to tape a
ball-band and a few strands of yarn to the back or the bottom of
the pattern.
The default value for START DATE is the current date. If there is
not enough room in the yarn data fields, abbreviate some part of
it and try again.
The GAUGE DATA is crucial. Check the measurements and
calculations of your test swatch gauge carefully. Remember that
this gauge is measured over 4 inches or 10 cm (NOT one inch).
DIAL GAUGE/KEYPLATE/NEEDLE SIZES are not used in any calculations,
but they are necessary for clarity of the printed pattern
instructions. The dial gauge/keyplate size messages are displayed
if knitting by machine.
NEEDLE SIZE messages are displayed if knitting by hand. The
needle size should be in the needle type entered on the Designer
Data. e.g. "4.25" is valid for metric, but not for American. The
needle size entered will be checked against a table, and a message
displayed if the value is not valid.
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5.3 SWEATER STYLE DATA
The sweater style data screen is as follows:
Sex: Woman Ease style: Moderate
Size: 36
Sweater style: Pullover
Sweater length: Regular
Neckline style: Crew
Shoulder style: Drop shoulder
Sleeve length: Full
All data fields on this screen are mandatory. Values are entered
from pop-up menus.
The SIZE and SEX are used to look up standard measurements in the
size table, and to calculate the finished measurements of your
sweater. The sex field is important; the measurements for a
child's 32 are different from a woman's 32, which are in turn
different from a man's 32. Usually, you should chose the size
closest to the actual chest measurement.
CHILDREN's sizes relate to approximate ages as follows:
Size (in): 20 22 24 26 28 30 32
Size (cm): 51 56 61 66 71 76 81
Age: 2 4 6 8 10 12 14
As we are all well aware, children vary greatly in their growth.
The chest size, body length and arm lengths should be used
primarily in selecting a size, not the age. For example, the
sweater knitted for a short chubby 4 year old will not fit his
tall skinny 4 year old friend.
EASE STYLE determines the amount of ease in the garment. It
varies from very tight (with no ease) to oversized (which has 5 to
6 inches of ease around the chest for women's sizes). Ease is
applied to the chest, back width, armhole and upper arm
measurements.
The CARDIGAN style is for a buttoned front on overlapping vertical
ribbing, which is the same width as the neckline ribbing.
The SWEATER BODY LENGTH code is used to calculate the finished
body length measurement. It is also used to determine where the
ribbing will fit. Use "Waist" to have the ribbing snug around the
waist, "Hip" or "Coat" to have it fit around the hips, "Regular"
to have it fit between the waist and hips (exactly where depends
on the finished body length measurement).
Note: if you want the ribbing to fit more snugly below the hips
for a coat length sweater, you may want to decrease the body
ribbing width.
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5.4 SWEATER STYLE DATA (continued)
Both the CREW (round) and V NECKLINE have a ribbing finish. The
instructions call for a K1P1 rib by hand, or a 2x1 rib by
machine. However, it is a relatively easy matter for an
experienced knitter to change this to a different kind of ribbing,
or to a rolled neck, a picot edge, etc..
The COWL NECK is for a fairly loose collar knitted in stocking
stitch, that will roll naturally. Knitting to a tighter gauge
(smaller needles/keyplate/dial gauge) will give a collar with a
closer fit. Likewise, a looser gauge will give a looser fit.
Optionally, the collar may be knit in garter stitch, or any
ribbing or pattern, instead of stocking stitch.
The COWL NECK collar is knit in one piece on the sweater, with a
seam on the left side. When finished, and rolled down, the right
(knit) side will be showing.
The SLEEVE LENGTH style is used to calculate the finished sleeve
length, and to determine where the sleeve ribbing will fit. A
full length sleeve will come down to the hand, and the ribbing
will fit around the wrist. A 3/4 length sleeve will end midway
between the wrist and elbow, and the ribbing should fit around the
forearm at that point.
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5.5 FINISHED MEASUREMENTS DATA
An example of the finished measurements data screen is as follows:
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS DATA
Woman's size 36 with Moderate fit. * Default measurements *
---------- SET-IN SLEEVE REGULAR LENGTH PULLOVER -----------
Chest: 38.1 Back width: 13.8 Body length: 22.7
Ribbing: 34.2 incl. ribbing: 2.5
---------------------- CREW NECKLINE -----------------------
Front neck width at bottom: 3.5 Back neck width: 6.5
Front neck depth at centre: 3.7 Neck ribbing: 1.
-------------------- FULL LENGTH SLEEVE --------------------
Armhole: 16. Sleeve top: 11.8 Sleeve length: 18.3
Ribbing: 7.1 Sleeve bottom: 7.9 incl. ribbing: 2.
Not all of the fields shown above will be displayed for every
style. Back width is used only for set-in sleeves. Neck ribbing
length is replaced with collar length for a cowl neck. Sleeve top
(upper arm) measurement is not needed for a drop shoulder style.
The data shown here is that which the program calculated using the
size and style data that you entered in the previous screens, and
the size table. The size table contains standard or "average"
measurements for given sizes. How close to average you are will
determine how many of these fields you will want to change.
Since it is hard to check all these numbers on the screen, it is a
good idea to print the pattern using this "first-pass" data, check
the data from the printed pattern, then return to the program to
change those fields that need changing, and finally print the
revised pattern to knit from.
Not every measurement needs to be checked. Check those that are
crucial to the fit of the garment, and the way you want it to
look.
All data shown on this screen (except size) are finished
measurements of the sweater. They are calculated including the
ease specified in EASE STYLE.
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5.5 FINISHED MEASUREMENTS DATA (continued)
BODY RIBBING WIDTH (labelled as ribbing, below chest on screen) is
the finished measurement of the ribbing when very slightly
stretched, so that it fits comfortably at the length specified.
SLEEVE BOTTOM is the finished measurement of the sleeve at the
wrist for full length sleeves or at the forearm for 3/4 length
sleeves. To allow for blousing, it is a separate measurement from
SLEEVE RIBBING WIDTH (shown below it on the screen). The ribbing
width is measured at the same place, for a comfortable fit of the
ribbing when it is very slightly stretched.
LENGTHS are also calculated with a certain amount of ease, for
comfort and style. Remember this ease when measuring your body
and sleeve lengths.
The finished measurements for body and sleeve length include the
ribbing length shown below them. BODY LENGTH is measured from the
back of the neck (below the neck ribbing) to the bottom of the
ribbing. SLEEVE LENGTH is measured from the underarm armhole seam
to the bottom of the ribbing.
NECK measurements do not include the ribbing. Neck depth is
measured from the centre bottom front of the neck to the top. The
front neck width for a cardigan is both sides combined.
NECK RIBBING length is also used as ribbing width for the vertical
front button/buttonhole ribbing on a cardigan.
While reviewing or entering the finished measurement data, you may
decide that you would like to try a different size or style. In
that case, press [Page Up] to return to the STYLE DATA screen.
This allows you to try several different sizes or styles, to see
what the finished measurements look like, without having to save,
or re-enter all the other data.
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6. HOW TO QUIT
The most common way to quit is to select the Quit option from the
main menu. This closes the files and exits neatly from the
program.
However, for any one of a number of reasons, you may wish to quit
before completing the pattern you are working with.
If you wish to exit while in the data entry process, you can press
[Esc], and you will be returned to the main menu, where you can
choose option Quit. Remember, if you press [Esc], that your
current data will NOT be saved.
If you have a problem with the program, and even the [Esc] key
does not work, try [Ctrl] [Break] held down together. This is not
such a tidy way of exiting, the data you were working on will be
lost, and files will not be closed properly.
If even this does not work, you will have to reset your computer,
and start your session all over. Remove any diskettes you may
have in your floppy drives. To reset, press the RESET button if
you have one, press the [Ctrl] [Alt] and [Del] keys all together,
or turn the machine off, then on again.
7. IF YOU HAVE A PROBLEM
If you have a problem, first note (on paper), the exact nature of
the problem. If it's a message on the screen, then do a [Print
Screen].
Next read the documentation thoroughly. If it is all still Greek
to you, then get help. For the install, DOS commands, file
recovery, or start-up, you need someone who knows a bit of DOS and
how computers work.
If it is something that has always worked fine before, try
resetting your system, and starting again.
If it is a problem with the way the program works, the results it
gives you, or the data it uses, describe it on the Comment /
Problem Form (Appendix B) and mail or phone it to us.
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8.0 SYSTEM MESSAGES:
There are several types of messages that may appear on your
screen. Usually the beep will sound and the message will appear
at the bottom left of the screen.
Most of the messages require acknowledgement (press any key), and
a change in the input data. Fatal errors will exit from the
program, and will require a change to the system environment
before the program can be re-run.
Most messages are self-explanatory, ones that may be confusing are
listed below to help you understand them, and to continue with
your sweater design.
8.1 INFORMATION MESSAGES:
These messages are displayed to provide information regarding the
status or activities of the program. They may request you to
wait until a certain action is completed, before entering any more
data.
ESC KEY PRESSED. PRESS ENTER TO VERIFY, ANY OTHER KEY TO RETURN.
This message is displayed to ensure that the [Esc] key is not
pressed accidentally. Escaping from certain activities could
lose a lot of data. If you pressed the [Esc] key
intentionally, now press [Enter] to confirm. Any other key
will return you to the point you were before pressing [Esc].
* * * WORKING. DO NOT DISTURB * * *
Wait; do not use the keyboard. This message is displayed
when the program is busy accessing file data, or doing
calculations. If the file is large, a few seconds may be
required to complete the operation. No keyboard instructions
can be accepted at this time.
8.2 WARNING MESSAGES:
These messages indicate that the data entered MIGHT be incorrect.
The program will accept your entry, and move on to the next
field. However, you should check the value you entered carefully,
and if it is incorrect, return to the field and revise it.
*** DELETE A PATTERN NOW OR NEXT ONE WON'T SAVE
A maximum of 99 patterns are allowed on the pattern file.
You have 98. You MUST delete at least one now, or the next
time you try to save a pattern there will not be room on the
file for it. See Utilities menu, section 4.4.2.
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8.2 WARNING MESSAGES (continued):
NECK OPENING MAY NOT BE BIG ENOUGH. CHECK MEASUREMENTS.
For a child's size 24 or less, a machine knit crew neck
pullover with grafted drop shoulder sleeves may not fit over
the child's head. You can increase the back neck width,
front neck width, and/or front neck depth. You can instead
use set-in or raglan sleeves, or do not graft both
shoulders. The pattern will print the warning message too.
If you have remedied the situation as suggested above, then
ignore it. The pattern will also print instructions for a
shoulder button placket closure.
NEEDLE SIZE NOT FOUND ON FILE.
The needle size you entered was not found on the needle size
table for your needle type (Metric, Canadian, or American).
However, the value you entered will be accepted unless you
change it. Verify the value before continuing.
PATTERN FILE NEARLY FULL. TIME TO DELETE.
A maximum of 99 patterns are allowed on the pattern file.
You have 90 or more. You should delete some of them, using
the Utilities Menu Delete Pattern Data function (see section
4.4.2).
SLEEVE TOP TOO WIDE FOR RAGLAN SHAPING. WILL MAKE NECKLINE TOO
BIG.
The sleeve top measurement is too large, compared to the body
measurement. The raglan shaping for the sleeve should match
that of the back and front. With your measurements, this
leaves a large section at the top of the sleeve to
incorporate into the neckline (which will make it baggy).
Usually we like to keep this section less than 2 in. (adult
sizes).
Your options are:
- If the measurement is fairly small, leave it as it is.
- Decrease sleeve top measurement.
- Use set-in sleeve or drop shoulder style.
- When knitting, decrease raglan slope on sleeve more
steeply than for back and front. Make sure you keep the
same number of rows on sleeve cap, as on the printed
pattern.
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8.3 ERROR MESSAGES:
These messages indicate that an error in the data entered has been
found. The value entered will not be accepted, and MUST be
revised.
ARMHOLE DECREASES TOO FLAT/STEEP FOR RAGLAN SHAPING.
This is probably an error in your finished measurements
data. A too flat condition may be caused by a comparatively
very large chest measurement, small back neck width, or small
armhole measurement. Likewise, a too steep condition may be
caused by small chest / large back neck / large armhole. In
particular, a raglan sleeve is not suitable for a wide back
neck.
Check your measurements. If an error is found, change the
data, and try printing the pattern again. If you think your
data is reasonable and see no reason why it should be
changed, send me a note with screen prints of all the input
and measurement data. Otherwise, try a set-in sleeve or drop
shoulder style.
CANNOT HAVE COWL NECK ON CARDIGAN OR SMALL CHILD.
Cowl neck styling is not included for a cardigan, or for a
child size 24 or less pullover (it would not fit over their
head). Try a different neckline style.
IF BODY KNITTED BY HAND, RIBBING MUST BE BY HAND ALSO.
There is no option to allow hand ribbing on a machine knit
body. If you really need this, print the pattern for all
hand, then change it to all machine, and print it again.
MEASUREMENT DATA OUT OF RANGE, NOT REASONABLE.
The finished measurement data is all numeric. For each field
the program has a predefined 'range of reasonableness'; e.g.
you can have 2 inches of ribbing, but not 20 inches. This
message is displayed when the program detects that the data
you just entered is outside this range.
NO DATA ON PATTERN FILE.
Most probably you have requested an old pattern file name,
but have not yet stored any on file. Once a new pattern has
been stored on file, it is then available for change or
printing.
PATTERN NOT SAVED. PATTERN FILE IS FULL.
The pattern file is full, it has the maximum of 99 allowable
patterns on it. Your current pattern has NOT been saved.
You must delete at least one pattern now (see Utilities
section 4.4.2), then re-enter your new pattern again to save
it.
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8.3 ERROR MESSAGES: (continued)
PATTERN NAME ALREADY ON FILE. CHOOSE A NEW ONE.
When saving pattern data, you have chosen a name that already
exists on the file. Each name on the file must be unique, so
you will have to change this new one slightly, and try again.
SEX, SIZE COMBINATION NOT FOUND ON SIZE TABLE.
Only certain combinations of size and sex are valid. Default
data for these combinations is stored on the size table.
Valid combinations are: children sizes 20 - 32, women sizes
30 - 48, and men sizes 32 - 52.
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8.4 FATAL ERROR MESSAGES:
These messages indicate that the error found was so severe that
the program cannot continue. After acknowledgement of the error,
the program will exit. Be sure to note the error message, (or use
[Print Screen] key to print it) before acknowledging the message.
Section 8.4.1 lists error messages for missing data files. If
your message is one of these, follow the instructions in that
section. Otherwise, continue reading here. Some examples follow:
FATAL ERROR. WN OPEN FAILED IN .....
FATAL ERROR. WN FRMOPN FAILED IN ....
_
RECOVERY. After the program has quit, restart your computer
system, and try again. If the error persists, there is probably a
problem with the program. Try re-installing the Sweater Design
program (see section 2 and use the original KNITWARE disk). If
the error still persists, write or call us for a new copy of the
program at no charge.
8.4.1 FILE MISSING MESSAGES:
These messages are displayed when one of the data files is
missing. The program needs this data to continue working.
The data files were originally installed from your KNITWARE
disk to your working disk (see section 2.0), but may somehow
have been deleted.
BACKUP DEFAULTS FILE NOT FOUND. CANNOT OPEN.
BACKUP PATTERN DATA FILE NOT FOUND. CANNOT OPEN.
NEEDLE SIZE FILE NOT FOUND. CANNOT OPEN.
PATTERN DATA FILE NOT FOUND. CANNOT OPEN.
SIZE TABLE NOT FOUND. CANNOT OPEN.
DESIGNER DEFAULTS FILE NOT FOUND. CANNOT OPEN.
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8.4.1.1 RESTORE SYSTEM DATA FILES
System data files are those files that the program reads
only, it never writes user data to them. They are: size
table, needle sizes table, and the original defaults and
pattern files.
To restore the data for these files, take your original
KNITWARE disk and copy the required file to your working
directory. With the original KNITWARE disk in drive A,
follow one set of steps below, depending on where your
working directory is.
For a hard disk installation, type:
cd \knit
to change to the working directory, then type one of the
following:
copy a:kws size.dat c: for size data
_
or copy a:kws ndl.dat c: for needle sizes
_
or copy a:kws dflt.org c: for original defaults
_
or copy a:kws patt.org c: for original pattern data
_
If running the program from floppy disk, insert the working
disk in drive B, then type one of the following:
copy a:kws size.dat b: for size data
_
or copy a:kws ndl.dat b: for needle sizes
_
or copy a:kws dflt.org b: for original defaults
_
or copy a:kws patt.org b: for original pattern data
_
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8.4.1.2 RESTORE USER DATA FILES
User data files are those files that the program modifies
with user data. They are changed every time the program is
run. They are the designer defaults file and the pattern
data file.
To restore these files you should copy from their backups.
If the backups are also missing, then the original files will
have to be copied from the KNITWARE disk. (see 8.4.1.1).
For a hard disk installation, type:
cd \knit
to change to the working directory, then type one of the
following:
copy kws dflt.bkp kws dflt.dat for designer defaults
_ _
or copy kws patt.bkp kws patt.dat for pattern data
_ _
If running the program from floppy disk, insert the working
disk in drive A, then type one of the following:
copy a:kws dflt.bkp a:kws dflt.dat for designer
_ _
defaults
or copy a:kws patt.bkp a:kws patt.dat for pattern data
_ _
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APPENDIX A
DETAILED KNITTING INSTRUCTIONS
The instructions printed on the KNITWARE patterns should be
sufficient for most knitters. However, inexperienced knitters or
those trying a new technique may need more detailed instructions.
For these reasons, step-by-step instructions for some of the
repetitive, or more complex procedures are included below.
These instructions cover only a few procedures. A good knitting
reference book is essential, and the owner's guide for a knitting
machine. Many knitting machines provide a step-by-step guide
including diagrams, such as BOND's Row by Row Kit.
There are many ways of doing each knitting procedure. For the
KNITWARE patterns, I have selected only one way, usually the most
common method. In some cases, I have instead used one that I feel
works especially well, or provides a better result.
You, of course, can choose the method you are most comfortable
with. Just because the pattern says to sew side seams with an
invisible seam, does not mean you cannot use an overlock stitch, a
backstitch, or your sewing machine. Choose what works best for
you.
This appendix is divided into three main sections. The first is
for those procedures common to both hand and machine knitting,
mostly finishing details. The second section is for hand
knitters, and the third for machine knitters.
A.1 ALL KNITTERS
ABBREVIATIONS:
alt alternate
beg beginning
cm(s) centimetre(s)
cont continue(ing)
dec decrease
foll following
inc increase
in(s) inch(es)
K knit
meas measures or measurement
MY main yarn
P purl
rem remaining
st(s) stitch(es)
*** MORNINGDEW CONSULTING ***** Version 1.10 *** January 1992 ***
*** KNITWARE *** SWEATER DESIGN ********************************* Page 32
A.1 ALL KNITTERS (continued)
TENSION SWATCH:
A tension or gauge swatch is one of the most important parts
of your knitted garment. Without it, your sweater will not
fit. Always knit a tension swatch BEFORE knitting your
sweater. The gauge can change, not only between makes of
yarn, but between different dye lots of the same yarn. Make
your tension swatch and BE SURE!!
Remember, also, to treat your swatch as you would your
sweater, e.g. wash, dry, steam or block, BEFORE measuring.
There are many different ways to do your tension swatch.
Personally, I like to do a fairly large piece (at least 40
sts by 40 rows) to get a more accurate sample. You can
measure out 4 inches in each direction, and count the rows
and stitches. With nubbly, mohair, or very fine yarns this
is sometimes quite difficult.
In these cases, and especially easy on a knitting machine,
you can mark off a fixed number of rows and stitches as you
are knitting (e.g. 20 by 20). You then measure the marked
area and convert it to a standard 4 inch (10 cm) gauge, using
your handy calculator.
INVISIBLE SEAM:
This method of sewing side seams and underarm seams provides
the cleanest finish. It takes a little longer, but the
result is well worth it.
1. Place both pieces right side up, seams abutting each
other, on a table or your lap. Using a tapestry needle,
secure the yarn at the beginning of the seam.
2. Pick up the cross thread one stitch in from the edge,
one side, then the other, for each row up the seam.
Keep the pieces right side up as you work on them.
3. Pull the seam from top to bottom every few inches, to
keep it elastic.
BACKSTITCH:
This stitch is most commonly used for ribbed seams and set-in
armhole seams.
1. Place both pieces right sides together, on a table or
your lap. Pin the seam to keep it from shifting.
2. Using a tapestry needle, secure the yarn at the
beginning with a couple of overlapping running stitches,
then move one stitch ahead.
3. Put the needle into the left end of the last stitch and
bring it out one stitch ahead. Pull the yarn through to
the front. Repeat until seam is finished.
*** MORNINGDEW CONSULTING ***** Version 1.10 *** January 1992 ***
*** KNITWARE *** SWEATER DESIGN ********************************* Page 33
A.2 HAND KNITTERS
KNITTING IN THE ROUND:
The KNITWARE pattern instructions are all written for "flat"
knitting, with straight needles knitting stocking stitch as
knit 1 row, purl 1 row. You may prefer to knit in the
"round", using circular or double pointed needles. They are
particularly useful for cowl necks and neckline ribbing,
giving an even unseamed finish.
EQUIVALENT NEEDLE SIZES:
If you have, as I do, a great variety of needles from many
different sources, a conversion chart is invaluable.
Following is a chart of equivalent needle sizes for those
most commonly used (I have excluded the very large and the
very small). Metric needles are in mm. Canadian needles are
the same as Old U.K.
.....small...........medium...........large....
Metric 2.75 3 3.25 3.5 3.75 4 4.25 4.5 5 5.5 6 6.5
American 2 3 - 4 - 5 6 7 8 9 10 -
Canadian 12 11 10 - 9 8 - 7 6 5 4 3
RIBBING:
The pattern instructions call for K1P1 ribbing for back,
front, sleeve and neckband ribbing. Experiment: try K2P2
ribbing, braided ribbing, cables, picot or garter stitch
edging: please do not be limited by the pattern
instructions. Think about what would look and work best for
your sweater.
*** MORNINGDEW CONSULTING ***** Version 1.10 *** January 1992 ***
*** KNITWARE *** SWEATER DESIGN ********************************* Page 34
A.3 MACHINE KNITTERS
ABBREVIATIONS:
COL Carriage on the left
COR Carriage on the right
FWP Forward working position (also called HKP)
Needles halfway between WP and HP, latches should
be open to knit.
HKP Half-knit position (also called FWP)
HP Holding position (needles all the way out)
LH Left hand
NWP Non-working position (needles all the way in)
RH Right hand
WP Working position (needles against the bed front)
WY Waste yarn
OPEN EDGE CAST ON:
For an open edge cast on (ribbing to be done later), hang the
weighted hem, thread up the carriage with waste yarn, and
start knitting. Knit 6 rows with waste yarn, then change to
MY, and reset row counter to 0.
CLOSED EDGE CAST ON:
This cast on method is used for a finished edge that will not
unravel, such as ribbing. COR, thread the carriage with MY,
push the needles to HP, and tie yarn to left-most needle.
Wind thread anticlockwise around the needles behind the
latches, one at a time. Hang the hem, put needles to FWP,
and knit.
For a closed edge cast-on for a rib, do as above, leaving
every third needle in NWP. When ribbing, remember to twist
the bottom ladder around the latchet tool to form the bottom
stitch.
RIBBING:
The pattern instructions call for 2x1 ribbing. This could as
easily be 1x1 or 2x2. Different types of ribbing will give
differently, and some types may be unsuitable for certain
types or weights of yarn.
For those of us with a single bed (knitting machine bed, that
is!) the ribbing may be done in several ways. The
instructions mention two ways, but you should use the method
that is most comfortable for you, and will work best for your
sweater. If you happen to be lucky enough to have a ribber,
use it.
*** MORNINGDEW CONSULTING ***** Version 1.10 *** January 1992 ***
*** KNITWARE *** SWEATER DESIGN ********************************* Page 35
A.3 MACHINE KNITTERS (continued)
SLEEVE GRAFTING:
A drop shoulder design is ideal for grafting the sleeve on.
The sleeve is worked on the garment from the armhole edge
down to the wrist. Follow the instructions as detailed on
the pattern.
You may find that the armhole between the markers will not
stretch as far as the required number of needles (you are
knitting to a very tight gauge with a non-stretchy yarn).
Your options are to either use fewer needles and adjust the
sleeve decreases, or to pick up a few more sts from the front
and back to fit the required number of needles.
GRAFTING A SHOULDER SEAM.
The shoulder seams for a drop shoulder sweater lend
themselves to grafting on the machine. This gives a very
clean join, and no seam to sew by hand later. A set-in
sleeve shoulder can also be grafted, if the stitches are put
into HP instead of cast off as the decreases are done, and
then knit with waste yarn to hold them.
1. Bring out the given number of needles to HP.
2. Rehang sts from left back shoulder, with knit side
facing, and waste yarn folded down towards you. Push
these sts behind the needles and remove the waste yarn.
3. Rehang sts from left front shoulder, purl side facing,
and waste yarn folded to the back, in the open latches
of the same needles. The right sides of the knitting
will be together. Remove the waste yarn.
4. Pull the sides of the back piece forward so that the
latches close and the back sts are pulled over the front
sts and the needles. One row of sts remains. Push
needles to WP, latches can be open or closed.
5. Use a keyplate or dial gauge 2 - 3 sizes larger than you
used to knit the body. Place carriage on side of
knitting that has the long strand. Thread carriage with
the long strand.
6. Knit the row. Cast off using the latch tool method.
LATCH TOOL CAST-OFF.
Provides a firm, non-elastic edge.
1. Start at end opposite the carriage. Remove the first st
with the latch tool, and place behind the latch. Remove
the second st into the hook of the latch tool.
2. Pull this st through the first st. Continue in the way
across the row.
3. Pull the end of the yarn through the last st.
*** MORNINGDEW CONSULTING ***** Version 1.10 *** January 1992 ***
*** KNITWARE *** SWEATER DESIGN ********************************* Page 36
A.3 MACHINE KNITTERS (continued)
BACK STITCH CAST-OFF.
Provides an elastic edge.
1. Thread a tapestry needle with the yarn tail. Insert it
into the first st in the row, pull the yarn through.
2. Insert the needle into the second st and pull it out
through the first st.
3. Continue, going into the third and out the second, into
the fourth, etc. until you reach the last st.
4. Fasten off the yarn, and remove the knitting from the
machine.
*** MORNINGDEW CONSULTING ***** Version 1.10 *** January 1992 ***
*** KNITWARE *** SWEATER DESIGN ********************************* Page 37
APPENDIX B
COMMENT / PROBLEM FORM
Name:
________________________________________________________________
Address:
_____________________________________________________________
City: State/Prov:
_______________________________ _____________________
Country: Zip/Postal Code:
____________________________ ________________
Date: Program Version:
_______________________________ ________________
Serial Number:
__________________
Comments or Description of Problem:
___________________________________
To: Morningdew Consulting Services Ltd.
7604 Morningdew Road
R.R. # 5, Victoria, B.C.
Canada V8X 4M6
Phone: (604) 652-4097
*** MORNINGDEW CONSULTING ***** Version 1.10 *** January 1992 ***
*** KNITWARE *** SWEATER DESIGN ********************************* Page 38
APPENDIX C
KNITWARE REGISTRATION FORM
Name:
________________________________________________________________
Address:
_____________________________________________________________
City: State/Prov:
_______________________________ _____________________
Country: Zip/Postal Code:
____________________________ ________________
Unit
Qty Price Total
KNITWARE registration . . . . . . . . $35.00 US
___
(includes all applicable taxes) . . $40.00 Can
____________
Shipping and handling outside
___
U.S.A. and Canada . . . . . . . . . . $ 5.00
____________
TOTAL
____________
Disk format: 5.25" 3.5"
_____ _____
We will accept US or Canadian currency.
Make cheques payable to: Morningdew Consulting Services Ltd.
Send this form and your registration fee to:
Morningdew Consulting Services Ltd
7604 Morningdew Rd.
R.R. #5 Victoria, B.C.
Canada V8X 4M6
Please fill in the following information if you can. It may help
improve our product and service to you.
Computer: PC-XT-286AT-386AT-PS/2 Model: Make:
____________ ____________
DOS version: RAM: K Hard Disk: Yes - No
____________ ______
Display: CGA-MCGA-EGA-VGA Floppy Disk: 5.25" - 3.50"
How did you receive your copy of KNITWARE? If it is a BBS or shareware
distributor, please indicate the name.
BBS - SHAREWARE DISTRIBUTOR - FRIEND Name:
____________________________
*** MORNINGDEW CONSULTING ***** Version 1.10 *** January 1992 ***
KWSVENDR.DOC
FILE: KWSVENDR.DOC 13 February 1992
KWS - KNITWARE(TM) SWEATER DESIGN Version 1.10, January 1992
from: Morningdew Consulting Services Ltd., R.R. #5 Victoria, B.C.
Canada V8X 4M6.
Copyright 1991, 1992 - Morningdew Consulting Services, Ltd.
All rights reserved
Vendors, you must contact us to register as an authorized distributor/dealer
of this software before selling copies of it. In this way, we can send you
the latest version of this software and can provide you with updates as they
are issued. We only want the best and most current version of this software
to be distributed and will work with you to ensure that your library has the
most recent versions of all our software.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
LONG DESCRIPTION:
KNITWARE SWEATER DESIGN allows a hand or machine knitter to custom design a
sweater, to revise and change the design, to use any type of yarn knit to any
gauge, and to print the pattern from which they will knit the design. It
removes the tedium of, and errors from, calculating adjustments for different
yarns, sizes, measurements, or gauges. The program includes a feature to
calculate the amount of yarn required to knit the sweater. Metric (cm) or
imperial (inches) units can be used.
The program allows the user to design a sweater in a variety of styles and
sizes. Pattern styles include pullovers or cardigans, in crew or V
necklines, or with a rolled cowl collar. Also included are: raglan, set-in,
and drop shoulder styles, full or 3/4 length sleeves, variable body lengths,
and variable ease style.
Measurement data is included for 28 standard sizes for men, women and
children. Any measurement can be changed, to suit the individual knitter's
requirements. Once a pattern has been designed, the pattern data is saved,
and can be modified and/or re-printed at any time. Up to 100 patterns can be
on file at one time, and a utility is provided to delete unwanted patterns.
The pattern instructions are for a stocking stitch body with ribbed trim.
Different pattern instructions are given for hand knitters and for machine
knitters. A simple knitting frame is assumed, although owners of punchcard
or electronic machines may also use the program. There is also an option for
a hand knit rib on a machine knit body.
The program is designed for both the novice and experienced computer user.
There is extensive use of menus for display and input, colour support, plus
menu level and on-line help facilities. There is a comprehensive user
manual, which provides step by step assistance to the new user, and a useful
reference with hints and techniques for those who are more familiar with the
program.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
SHORT DESCRIPTION:
KNITWARE Sweater Design assists hand and machine knitters in custom designing
sweaters and prints the pattern instructions to knit from. It allows any
yarn gauge, provides a variety of "mix-and match" sweater style components,
provides 28 standard sizes, and allows all measurements to be customized.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
SYSTEM REQUIREMENTS are: an IBM PC or compatible computer with 256K free RAM,
DOS 2.1 or greater, a floppy disk drive and a printer. A hard disk drive and
colour monitor are optional.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
BULLETIN BOARDS may carry this software, if the date at the top of this file
is less than one year old. We ask that bulletin boards contact us for a copy
of the latest version.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
REGISTRATION: The registration cost is $35 US or $40 Canadian (includes all
taxes), plus $5 shipping and handling outside Canada and USA.
Orders should specify disk size (5.25" or 3.5").
The KNITWARE SWEATER DESIGN registration package includes: a disk containing
the latest version of the program and data files, a printed and bound user
manual, free program support for 6 months, and minimal cost program updates.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
ALL SERVICES, ORGANIZATIONS, USER GROUPS, BULLETIN BOARDS, DISTRIBUTORS,
DEALERS, whether profit or nonprofit must meet the following requirements or
they may not distribute copies of this software.
The files on each disk may not be modified or adapted in any way. All of the
files provided on the disk must be distributed together. Individual files or
groups of files may not be sold separately. Additional files may be added
and this software may be combined on disks with other software.
Individual copies of this software may not be sold for more than $10.
This software may not be represented as anything other than shareware and the
shareware concept must be explained in any ad or catalog or promotion that
quotes a price and on any packaging used to display the disk.
You must stop selling/distributing copies of this disk upon notice from
Morningdew Consulting Services Ltd.
Thank you for your support.
Janet Tombu
Morningdew Consulting Services, Ltd.
(604) 652-4097
Directory of PC-SIG Library Disk #4089
Volume in drive A has no label
Directory of A:\
KWS EXE 177848 2-12-92 9:35a
KWS_PATT ORG 347 11-25-91 8:46a
KWS_DFLT ORG 50 11-05-91 9:57a
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KWS_SIZE DAT 2425 11-18-91 10:36a
KWS_PATT DAT 347 11-25-91 8:46a
KWS_PATT BKP 347 11-25-91 8:46a
KWS_DFLT DAT 50 11-05-91 9:57a
KWS_DFLT BKP 50 11-05-91 9:57a
KWSUSER DOC 85690 1-20-92 10:01a
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KWS HLP 35235 1-22-92 7:34a
KWS NDX 368 1-22-92 7:34a
KWSINSTL BAT 1405 1-07-92 8:26a
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18 file(s) 316972 bytes
33792 bytes free